Fall Winter 19-20 Report
For AW19 Burberry under the creative direction of Riccardo Tisci continues it’s evolution of Burberry’s brand, and product offerings. Tisci paved 2 roads to follow. For Fall 19-20 Tisci focuses on tailoring and streetwear for the revised urban look. The new Burberry logo is front and center on some of the collections pieces as well as the Thomas Burberry monogram makes a debut onto the menswear accessories. All and all Burberry proves again a force to be reckoned with. They say beige makes The Perfect Man.
The Missoni Man Winter 2019 collection masterfully captures the stylistic and cultural reverberations of an iconic era through the gaze of a contemporary lens. It is a collection of subtle counterbalances, where Missonified minimalism encounters the frissons of exhilaration that have always encapsulated the diversity of artistic movements over the decades. Angela Missoni continues to explore and draw inspiration from the international art scene; breathing life into singular visual forms that join a multiplicity of artistic techniques, moods and interpretations.
Ensembles created for the pleasure-seeking jet set, this sartorial collection reconstructs classic pieces with a minimalist sensibility, the Missoni finesse and a dash of effortless cool. Structured silhouettes are narrow and elongated as they softly trace the body. A refined colour palette of soft gradients enchants as shades of camel fluidly morph into ochre; crimson red into bright orange; deep wine into electric blue; and ink blue into turquoise.
This season’s foray into evening wear pairs tuxedos in woven or lame flecked loom-knit fabrics with bib-front shirting in lamé that beckon the glamour of the ’70s, while thin plissé knit scarves inject a touch of continental flair.
The offering is further enhanced by smartly tailored pieces such as long blazers and high-waisted, tapered trousers in loom-knit fabrics; dégradé blazers and trousers in compact jacquard-knit fabrics; and belted double-breasted coats and reversible caban coats backed in soft felted wool.
Luxuriously soft knitwear in cashmere, mohair and fleecy wool envelop the body in warmth and form. Chunky bombers with velvet collars; reversible dégradé cardigans and crewnecks; and shawlcollar and roll-neck sweaters become the staples and layering pieces of the chicly informal Missoni man.
The parallels between Missoni’s heritage and contemporary artist Anton Alvarez—whose creativity reflects a process that oscillates between tradition and innovation—have given rise to a collaborative force this season. The artist’s eclectic use of color and material inspired the designs of two distinctive cable knits: dégradé sweaters flecked with mohair to create abstract motifs and handmade roll-necks with whirling relief patterns that have been embroidered by hand. Each unique piece presents a dynamic interplay of pattern and texture, reinterpreting the sinuous whorls and undulations of his sculptural forms.
“I’m happy to finally give birth — I feel like it’s been 10 months instead of nine, so I’m way overdue,” says Kris van Assche to WWD before the premiere of his first Berluti runway presentration. Van Assche is the Dior Homme former designer, now at Berlutti, the men’s luxury brand, famous for its superb leather bags and footwear. The Venezia is the Berluti shoe that began the new collection. The shoe is favorite for Berluti customers. It’s famous for its finish created by solvents, pigments and dyes to achieve a worn vintage look.
The eleborate age-old technique has become Berluti’s skills signature with the luxury skins and leather. The patinated look was applied to a coat for a beautiful finish.
Trousers stamped with the Berluti logo printed down the leg, these were worn with sharp tailored jacket.
Remember, the modern luxury customer requires comfort with his price tag. But most of all, Van Assche is known for his exquisite tailoring. His suits are sharp and will please his customer base and those added from his time at Dior Homme. These shoppers want fitted, smart and fine suits – that’s their look, He travels for business all year. He has multiple homes with the multiple wardrobes to match. You can totally see that luxury perfection is alive at the house of Berluti.
For AW19 Massimo Piombo’s looks mirror a world full of excessive combinations—From coats to jackets, sweaters to scarves, all worn with eclectic layering in mind evoking neoromanticism. Old school fabrics such as tartan plaids in bold reds and solid brights tamed ever so slightly by neutral tones and soft textures are at the core of the collection. This is for the offbeat cosmopolitan man, you know who you are.
MAISON KITSUNE PARIS
Maison Kitsuné’s roots as a record label make a comeback under the creative direction of Yuni Ahn, formerly at CELINE. The collection is inspired by the 90s house music scene. Maison Kitsuné held its first ever runway presentation at Paris Fashion Week with help from music platform Boiler Room. The muted collection strikes a fine balance between Maison Kitsuné’s heritage and the all new direction. Streetwear and workwear inspirations present, but do notice the chunky sneakers, they’re a collaboration with BRANDBLACK.
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